The name Pleiku is normally
associated with the American warfare as one of the main
theatres of operations. It was a North Vietnam Army
assault on Pleiku that prompted Lyndon Johnson to
authorise the ‘Operation Rolling Thunder’, a
campaign of
sustained heavy bombing. It was additionally the
location of the war’s first conventional battle. When Buon Ma Thuot fell to the North Vietnam Military, the
South Vietnam Military deserted Pleiku, leaving it
little more than a ruin.
After the war, it was
rebuilt with USSR help, so it’s hardly shocking that it
has all of the charm of a Soviet gulag.
On the positive side, it
has enticing countryside and some delightful home keep
locations.
Pleiku is the provincial
capital of Gia Lai province, about 50km south of Kon Tum
and approximately 200km from Quy Nhon and is linked to
Ho Chi Minh City by regular Vietnam Airline flights.
There’s a decent local hotel and a few reasonable
restaurants, but don’t count on an international menu.
Away from the city,
visitors can see the striking Phu Cuong waterfall, a
single torrent plunging vertically into a seething
cauldron of water and spray at its base. In complete
distinction, Plei Bloum village is a quiet settlement
overlooking a broad, slow-transferring river. The sunset
across the valley from the veranda of an ethnic
homestays is a joy!
A fascinating
characteristic of the Gia Rai villages are their
cemeteries. The tombs take the type of mini-houses
surrounded by carved wood effigies, often humorous and
sometimes graphic depictions of stages of procreation.
Plei Phun cemetery is a good example.
Life is gentle within the
villages. You’ll be welcomed on all sides, and invited
to affix in local ceremo nies and activities. As with the
remainder of the plateaux area, you’ll find the Gia Rai
ethnic people of Plei Phun remarkably pleasant, generous
and undemanding.
The sweeping thatched
roofs of the normal ‘rong’ communal houses of the Ba Na
individuals are one of the vital distinguishing features
of the Central Highlands. Standing inside and looking
up, you’ll be amazed by the intricate lattice of
supports that allow the roof to withstand sturdy winds.
The huge Bien Ho (Sea
Lake) is the flooded crater of an ancient volcano.
Though it’s an attractive location, it warrants only a
short visit as a result of there’s not a lot else to do
apart from looking on the view. You might pause somewhat
while to surprise why the water level hardly varies at
all, regardless of the prolonged desiccating droughts
that reduce the plateau to a dustbowl each spring.
It’s not worth bothering
with the much-touted Yaly Falls. As soon as one of
Vietnam’s most spectacular waterfalls, almost all the
water has been diverted to a hydro-electric power plant.
It’s tempting to grouse about conservation; however it’s
important to do not forget that Gia Lai is likely one of
the poorest and sparsely populated provinces in the
nation, mainly due to its insufficient infrastructure.
Electrification is bringing jobs. |